David Flanagan thought learning to surf would be easy, despite the fact he was scared of the ocean and fast approaching middle age. he intended to write a light-hearted account of his progress towards surfing nirvana, but instead found himself facing danger, doubt and the spectre of childhood...
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David Flanagan thought learning to surf would be easy, despite the fact he was scared of the ocean and fast approaching middle age. he intended to write a light-hearted account of his progress towards surfing nirvana, but instead found himself facing danger, doubt and the spectre of childhood bereavement.
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